Tuesday, 22 February 2011 23:01

A TALE OF TWO ANTHONYS

Written by  Dougie Bell
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I never did get to meet my all time food hero FLOYDY so sad when he passed . He was my inspiration in the eighties he was a big part of why I travel, cook, why I opened a restaurant and why to this day I remain a hard core food obsessive and importer of global ingredients. Many of my customers still come in clutching stained copies of far flung Floyd or Floyd’s great curries, his legacy lives on at Lupe Pintos.
Still there are others and I saw most of them at the BBC GOOD FOOD SHOW back in 2001. We had taken out a LUPE PINTO stand under Rick Stein’s Food Hero Banner, we're mentioned in his book in the supplier section. We were there to launch our new book TWO COOKS AND A SUITCASE. Each morning we put out  piles of chilies, hot sauces, fine Tequila and piles of our book , then we’d wait anxiously for the NEC doors to open, this was the quiet time, a time to reflect, to get ready for the mayhem the next seven hours would bring.

Jamie would pass with entourage, and all you would hear was “Jamie, Jamie, Jamie, Jamie ” like a gaggle of geese, his stand was just around the corner. Ainslie was never too far away. The main theatre for demos was close by and celebrities could make big bucks for appearing. Rick dropped  by and chatted we were under his banner of course, still nice of him to say hello. The biggest surprise for me was Anthony Worrel Thomson, he stopped and gave us a bit of a thumbs up, albeit from 10 feet away.  “Come over and chat” I said, he wagged a finger indicating that he couldn’t, stood a while, eyeballing our goods then sauntered off to do what celebrity chefs do. A few minutes passed and a decent chap clutching a clip board arrived, “I’m from Anthony, he’s about to do a master class on the Tesco stand and wonders if he might blag a selection of your amazing chilies”. “ fuck off, tell him to get them from Tesco” I said, “if he wants some chilies he should have asked me in person, he was here five minutes ago”. “So that’s a no” . “Yeh” I said. Ten minutes passed and the same guy returned with two amazing looking sausage butties. “ Anthony wonders if you’ll swap a bag of chilies for these two amazing sausage baps”.  Now I don’t know if  Anthony actually cooked them or whether his people blagged them from another stand, I’m guessing the second.  What I do know is we were starving and he probably knew that, and his man left with a big bag of Lupe Pintos finest. I was left with a new respect for a celebrity chef that up until then I was never over keen on. He saw, he liked, he bartered he got, and at least he stopped to gesture kindly to those that toil in the name of food.

There was a time when Anthony Bourdain could  in my mind, do no wrong. Kitchen Confidential, his street prose account of life as a chef in New York, was not only a hysterical white knuckle ride of a read, it brought  kudos to those of us who cook, most chefs I know love that book. His food based travel shows,  'A Cooks Tour' followed by the amazing 'No Reservations', for me , were perfect. Funny, informative, he drank, he smoked, he gorged himself on the gastronomic pleasures cooks of the world offer . He never seemed totally comfortable giving his soul to the camera, which to me is the correct and dignified approach. All too easy TV chefs seem to be totally okay doing exactly what the producers say. Resulting in a collection of overly emotional, gesturing  puppets, pouters, ranters, caricatures and as Keith Floyd  refers to them in his autobiography  “ a bunch of cunts”. At the drop of a hat, some TV chefs seem happy to front major supermarket chains or stick their faces on pots and pans, kitchen utensils or product. To be one of the few to make it, to  abuse that privilege to take that easy money especially when you have enough already, is quite simply, TACKY. Bill Hicks sums this sentiment up perfectly, if you do a commercial, it’s simple you become a sucker of  Satan’s cock.

Anthony Bourdain has never to my knowledge sucked Satan’s cock, or brought out a set of high quality kitchen knifes with skull tattoos on them. So what’s my beef. Well, he began his Edinburgh book Festival gig by   apologising to Jamie Oliver for all the unkind things he had said about him in the past. Fuck that, the reason I adore the man is precisely the unkindness he shows to people like that, besides we are talking about the same Jamie that rides into New Orleans calls everyone brother and disrespects cook legend Dooky Chase just because she don’t play ball with  the production company.

The gig could have been a bit less staged, most of the questions asked were asked by plants,  no normal member of the public delivers questions like that, not even the articulate members of the Edinburgh Book Café, each question a Q for  Tony to launch into a reasonably well delivered rhetoric about, vegetarianism, life on the road, etc.  Where were all those chefs  he adores so much ?, why didn’t the place smell of kitchen toil?, simple, Edinburgh Festival 8 o’ clock Saturday night, most of  his most craziest devotees were chained to the stove.  If I’m going to be honest with you here  the real problem is not anything Bourdain said or done, he mouths off hysterically all the time, contradicts himself always, one of the great joys of his collection 'The Nasty Bits', are the back page comments, the retrospective self criticizing. The problem here is me, Hero envy. My sons hero was better than mine.

Vincent met his hero the previous night, comic book writer Alan Moore, who delivered a heartfelt, intelligent,  totally honest, a very credible session, followed by a two hour long book signing. He allocated each excited fan the exact amount of time to express their gratitude, went on to thank each person for waiting patiently and for investing time and money in supporting his achievements, signed each graphic novel meticulously a writer for 30years spending Quality time with those that matter most, his fans. Real classy, cool. My hero, scrawled through hundreds of books in a nano second, reducing a 2 hour Q in fifteen minutes. It’s a chef style to be quick and efficient, not used to front of house, had prior engagements, fuck it, couldn’t wait to get to the pub. I  offered to my boy, in defence of my hero.  Besides your guy, writes about  heroes and therefore has insights into how one should behave, my hero‘s a cook, who struck lucky. I could have argued for hours defending my Hero, it would have made no difference the simple fact was my guy sucked,  Vincent knew it, I knew it, end of story.

Last modified on Thursday, 24 February 2011 14:06